Makers House is the collaboration in between Burberry and The New Craftsmen. I don’t think I need to have an introduction about Burberry since I believe everyone knows about it. As for The New Craftsmen, it is something new to me as well. It’s basically a group of high end hand craft retailers.
Exhibition was taken place in an old bookstore in Soho, London. At the ground floor was The New Craftsmen’s installation by using the concepts of the Burberry spring/summer 17 collection and also the mood board and development of Burberry SS17 collection. At the first floor was the display room of Burberry’s men’s and women’s SS17 collection.
Being a fashion designer, my visit would be focuing on the design process and collection exhibitions. But of course I will show you from the way in.
Following photos are taken at the entrance of old bookstore converted exhibition place: Busts and equestrian sculptures were arranged to represent the English country style which met the inspiration of Burberry spring/summer 17 collection, Viginia Woolf’s literary novel, Orlando. Orlando is one of my favorite both in novels and films. For those who are not familiar with it. Orlando was an English noble who spent whole life sought love, one’s social statue and the meaning of life. In the 16th century, after receiving the blessing of immortality from Queen of United Kingdom, he has been living until now. During his life, after several social transformation and because of the disappointment of the low status of women, he transformed himself from a man to a woman, and living as a women to carry on pursuing the meaning of life.
This exhibition space was essentially based on this story, you will see not only the venue was based on the background of this novel, clothing design was also inspired by British costume, tailoring and textile design.
The reason I explained about this story is because for me, Burberry womenswear style always has an unisex feel than pure feminine even if it is a very tight pencil skirt or a full lace outfit. The design inspiration of the story was a perfect combination.
After passing through the entrance, it was a little garden in the same style decorated by busts and equestrian sculptures like you were in the garden of a peaceful English country mansion and the entrance of the venue was an English style tea room and café. See photo below.
Below photos are my personal favorite, design inspiration and process. During design process, you can be full of imagination with lots of different ideas depending on the inspiration and research direction. I think that is the fun part of being a designer and to me, even as a costumer, I find it very interesting to understand what the story is behind the collection.
But of course we all have to come back to reality. The finished product is one of the most important part. The end of day that is what people are going to wear and well it’s also what the company is going to make money and keep the next season going. That’s also why some of the coolest pieces on the catwalk, you will never see in production after all but you sure will find something similar and more wearable being produced.
So much beauty in one wall. You can see lots of textiles ideas going on here and for the size of company like Burberry, I don’t think it is hard to imagine most of the fabric are designed and produced specially and exclusively.
The combination of fabric, shape and colours.
From above photos, you probably can get the final collection will be full of earthy tones, lots of prints and different textures combination. English costumes kind of shape like ruffles, pleated collars, belled shape and etc.
It is Burberry and yes there are trench coats every season. Now you can see the very popular military detailed trend this season will not go away anytime soon. At least it will carry on until next year.
I find the styling in above photo kind of interesting. the first two outfits are both with more unisex, kind of structured shape on top and pair with feminine bottoms in skirt while the middle two outfits are styled with super soft, oversized top and more tailored cut (even though in soft materials) bottoms. Actually if you are interested in styling, there are always rules whether in magazines, shows and etc… If you know me from Instagram, _h2w_ , you probably know I don’t exactly think about the rule, I wear whatever I like as long as I feel comfortable but in another way, no matter how much you don’t care, you are probably following it naturally without thinking. But if you aren’t comfortable of doing it naturally, there are examples everywhere for you as references.
Above first outfit was my favorite from the display. Ruffled collar, belled sleeves sweater and sheer ruffled skirt. Non of the ideas are brand new, they all are carried on from the past two seasons. I think that is beauty of styling, you don’t always need the latest items to look trendy and have new style every season. There are lots of items you can re use and style differently. But well, if you have lots of money, then you can always get the latest ones. Being a designer, I would really love you all update your wardrobe completely everytime in a way! 😛
Me standing next to belled sleeves wearing belled bottom trousers. I promise I will stop saying “bell” in my next post. You probably hear me saying it several times but it really is one of my favorite trends of the season and I am so glad it is obviously going to be there next year too.